Based Pike stepping in and showing everybody how it's done, Saru's transformation into a badass, Young, reckless Spock growing into the one we know... and relatively little screentime for ugly melted Klingons (would have been better if they fixed them but I'll take it).
It's not perfect. I'm annoyed they brought back the doctor that Voq killed. Tillie continues to be just the worst. Their repudiation of Section 31 as a concept was pretty half-hearted. But overall, I would say it's decent mid-tier star trek.
I'd put it somewhere between the odd-numbered classic trek movies and the worse half of Voyager. It's still miles better than season 1, any TNG movie after First Contact, or the first two Kelvin Timeline movies. At this point, the thing about it that annoys me the most is its connection to yet another stupid streaming service.